The initial concept, on the left - what the final project should look like, on the right, the SNES CPU with game attached.
Take one NES ...
Remove the lid ....
Remove the radiation shield and .. VIOLA !! NES guts !!
Theres an annoying heat sink on the inside that takes up valuable space ...
Nothing a hacksaw cant fix :P.
The heat Sink has been cut down to a realistic size :)
Take a standard 2-gang extension lead, remove its lid ...
Unwire the 2-gang extension leads' plug.
Cut the remaining part of the 2-gang extension lead down to size, so that it fits into the NES .... NOTE - the Earth ports have been removed to make the fitting process easier ... who needs to earth their 20 year old appliances anyways ?!? :P:P.
The remenants of the 2-gang extension lead fit nicely into a gap on the left side of the NES cart loader.
The Power cable for the 2-gang extension lead runs underneath itself before exiting the Chassis.
The cart door is removed and a hole is cut into the lid of the NES chassis, this hole need to emcompass the entire righthand side of the NES cart loader, and several holes must be drilled into the back for the varius cables.
The first of many holes is drilled.
The hole in the lid of the NES chassis is complete, this will provide enough room for the two power adapters of the NES and the SNES.
On a seperate NES chassis lid, 2 holes are (untidily) made, the top left corner is for an aerial signal switcher, to allow the user to switch between NES and SNES video outputs. The second and larger hole is for the SNES carts to fit into.
Same shot as before, but demonstrating a SNES cart fitting in the hole and into the SNES cart reader..
The "SNES" top is then placed ontop of the "NES" top. The top card lid is kept to conceal the SNES controller ports when the SNES is not in use (the controller port chip is not yet in place).
The top of an original SNES chassis is removed, and the cover that fits around the cart port is lined up to be cut out and stuck onto the top of the "SNES" top to cover the untidy hole.
All the holes are drilled.
The power cable of the 2-gang extension lead is fed through its corresponding hole and the plug is re-wired. Unlike the NES and SNES, this new machine will not have a removable aerial and power lead, they will both be hardwired into the machine.
The NES adapter power plug is disassembled, and then reassembled without the plug chassis, and without the Earth node - it is then fitted onto the 2-gang extension.
The NES power adapter is placed inside the original chassis, with the top of it barely sticking out the hole - the NES power cable is fed through a hole in the back, and then into its original power port on the outside of the bottom-half of the chassis. (note a new hole had to be made on the top of the "NES" top to allow the SNES cpu to sit comfortably ontop of it - this hole makes room for the SNES's defunct expansion port).
With the "NES" top removed again, the SNES power adapter is positioned next to the NES one, and its power plug is disassembled, and then reassembled without its chassis and without its earth node, this is then plugged into the empty plug socket on the 2-gang extension lead.
The NES and SNES lids are then glued into place - A NES game genie is used on the old NES CPU that struggles to read carts in the normal loading position.
The back-end of the machine, showing the complex cabling. NOTE - only 2 cables do not re-enter the machine - the white (power) cable, and the black (aerial) cable seen in the top right corner.
Close up of the Aerial switcher (left is SNES, right is NES).
A small hole was drilled in the side to allow access to the SNES power switch.
The complete article (with the SNES controller ports glued in place).